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K2

The savage mountain, Earth's second-highest peak in the Karakoram

The pyramid summit of K2 above the Baltoro Glacier
Zacharie Grossen / CC BY-SA 4.0 - via Wikimedia Commons

Lower than Everest by little more than 200 metres yet far deadlier to climb, K2 rises in brutal isolation on the border of Pakistan and China, a near-perfect pyramid of gneiss and ice that mountaineers have nicknamed the Savage Mountain. Its terse name is no accident: it is the surveyor's notation - Karakoram peak number two - that stuck because the mountain stands too remote from any village to carry a common local name. At 8,611 metres it is the crown of the Karakoram and one of the most technically demanding of all the eight-thousanders.

K2 anchors the Baltoro Muztagh, a sub-range of the Karakoram where some of the planet's longest non-polar glaciers - the Baltoro and the Godwin-Austen among them - grind through a labyrinth of granite spires. Every route to the summit is steep and exposed, from the Abruzzi Spur to the knife-edged North Ridge, and the mountain's weather turns lethal with little warning. Avalanche, rockfall, and the thin murderous air above the Bottleneck - a couloir beneath a wall of overhanging serac ice - have given K2 one of the highest fatality rates of the major peaks.

First climbed on 31 July 1954 by the Italians Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli, K2 long resisted the winter ascent that climbers chased for decades. That final prize fell on 16 January 2021 to a team of ten Nepali Sherpas who reached the top together, singing their national anthem - a landmark moment that reframed the history of high-altitude mountaineering around the climbers who had so often gone uncredited. K2 remains a benchmark of difficulty, attempted by far fewer than Everest and forgiving of far less.

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