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The Strait of Gibraltar

The 14-kilometer gap between Europe and Africa that is the Mediterranean's only natural link to the Atlantic

The Strait of Gibraltar seen from Spain, with the mountains of Morocco across the water
NASA / Public domain - via Wikimedia Commons

On a clear day you can stand on the Spanish shore and see the mountains of Morocco. The Strait of Gibraltar is the closest Europe comes to Africa and the only natural opening between the Mediterranean and the world ocean, a gap the ancients marked with the Pillars of Hercules and believed was the edge of the known world. Today the International Maritime Organization counts up to 400 vessels a day, roughly 100,000 a year, threading it, while ferries shuttle millions of travelers between two continents. It is also a border with a twist: a British territory on one shore, a Spanish city on the African one, and claims that still cross the water.

The strait runs about 58 kilometers between Spain's southern tip and northern Morocco, narrowing to about 14 kilometers between Point Marroquí near Tarifa and the Moroccan coast. Two great headlands frame its eastern mouth, the Rock of Gibraltar, a British overseas territory, and Jebel Musa in Morocco, near the Spanish city of Ceuta. A shallow sill at Camarinal, under 300 meters deep, controls the exchange of water: lighter Atlantic water flows in at the surface to replace what the Mediterranean loses to evaporation, while dense, salty Mediterranean water spills out below. Big ships follow a traffic separation scheme monitored from Tarifa, while dolphins and orcas work the currents and migrating storks and raptors cross overhead each spring and autumn.

Some 5.3 million years ago the Atlantic broke through here and refilled a Mediterranean that had largely dried out, a deluge geologists call the Zanclean flood. In 711 a Muslim army under Tariq ibn Ziyad crossed from Africa, and his name survives in Gibraltar, from Jabal Tariq, Tariq's Mountain. Britain took Gibraltar in 1704 and Spain still claims it, while Morocco claims Ceuta and Melilla, which Spain holds. The strait became the Mediterranean gate for British naval power and later the route to the Suez Canal, and when Red Sea attacks diverted ships around Africa from 2023, it saw some of that traffic arrive from the south. It is also a migration route, crossed legally by more than three million people each summer and dangerously by small boats.

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